Topic: This video discusses how to adjust pinion bearing preload on a vehicle.Music introduction and closing: Ashokan Farewell: Written by Jay Unger, Guit.. A loose nut may make noise and not allow the pinion to work as it should, but an overly tight pinion nut will wear out the bearing prematurely. It is best to tighten the nut slowly and in small increments, such as ½ or ¼ turn maximum A car with a loose pinion-bearing preload will often make a howling noise as gears are being changed. In this situation, the howling kicks in only when the vehicle is decelerating. It's easy to mistake this sound for tire noise
The pinion nut really doesn't tighten the preload, it only tightens down on the shims that, in reality, limit the preload you can apply by tightening down the nut. You torque the nut to specs, if the preload is wrong, you need to add/remove shims as needed from the outer pinion bearing. The shims under the inner pinion race are what affect the. So I replaced the seals and fluids on both the transmission and differential last week and I started getting a rear end whining noise during deceleration and after searching the web for a while I found that most of the time that will happen when the you have a Loose pinion bearing preload, So if I understand correctly this means the pinion nut is loose and the fix is to tighten the pinion nut. A collapsible spacer is used to obtain the specified amount of pressure or preload. This spacer is placed between the bearings. Turning the pinion gear nut crushes the spacer to obtain the specified preload. This preload prevents the sideways thrust that moves the pinion gear to the outside edge of the ring gear The preload is achieved by means of a spacer between the two pinion bearings. Tightening up the pinion nut clamps all three items together (inner bearing, spacer, outer bearing). The shorter the spacer, the more the bearings are pushed together and so the higher the preload. This provides the way of adjusting the preload to the correct value
. This condition is typically always diagnosed as a bad ring and Pinion gear. Regular clunking or loud clicking every few feet may indicate a broken ring or pinion gear tooth Pinion bearing preload is measured in inch-pounds and is a measure of the rolling resistance of the pinion bearings after proper torque has been applied to the pinion nut. This is because while cornering, the outside wheel spins faster than the inside wheel If the preload is too loose, remove shims so that the bearings will be tighter against the races and increase the preload. Once you've achieved the proper preload, lightly tap both ends of the pinion to seat the bearings, races and yoke. Once the pinion has been seated, recheck the pinion preload with your inch-pound torque wrench Most common causes: Bad wheel bearing or loose pinion-bearing preload A worn wheel bearing can cause a howling noise. If you're also hearing a rumbling noise when turning, then it's likely a bad wheel bearing. You may also trace this noise to a loose pinion-bearing preload If the pinion bearing preload exceeds the speciﬁed allowable range, install another new crush sleeve and start over! Pinion bearing preload is measured in inch-pounds and is a measure of the rolling resistance of the pinion bearings after proper torque has been applied to the pinion nut. Set the preload carefully (see Speciﬁcations.
I installed 5.38 gears about 8000mi ago, reused the pinion bearings and replaced the crush sleeve. After about 8000mi the pinion seal started leaking and I noticed a gear noise on decel. The pinon was loose but the pinon nut was still tight. pulled the pinon and the bearings look like this The preload for duplex bearings is built-in once the faces are drawn together. Several duplex mounting arrangements are possible by changing the orientation of the bearings in the duplex bearing set. Back-to-back is the most common duplex bearing arrangement. Before assembly, the bearings feature a clearance between the inner ring faces
I am redoing the bearings in my chrysler 8.25 and I've gotten it down to setting the preload on the pinion. When I tighten the nut down all the way before torquing it down there is still play in the pinion. I got it to 150 ft lbs and there is still play. Will it take all the way to 200-210 ft.. To set pinion bearing preload, use a holding tool to keep the pinion gear stationary. Then a breaker bar or torque wrench can be used to tighten the pinion nut. CASE BEARING PRELOAD. - The case bearing preload is the amount of force pushing the differential case bearings together. As with pinion bearing preload, it is critical. If preload is.
Diagnosing Ring and Pinion Gear, Differential, Axle and Driveline Noise. Whirring noise only while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload. This kind of noise is almost never caused by bad ring and pinion gears Pinion bearing preload too tight? noise? Jump to Latest Follow If the pinion nut had been left loose when you picked up the car you would have noticed it right away. I suspect you now have some bad pinion bearings and maybe a a bad ring & pinion to boot. The installer should have used a new nut, it is fround upon to re-use a pinion nut, at. My intermediate axle has lost the pinion preload and given me a vibration. I've done about 800-900 miles in the past five days and the bearings have not burned up on me and it hasn't gotten any worse so I'm fairly sure the bearings are not bad, just lost the preload. I understand that this is.. From what I've read, it sounds exactly like loose pinion bearing preload. But here's the kicker - when it's warm weather (above 70 degrees or so), it's amost imperceptible. But when it's cold outside, especially below 50 or so, it's loud. So April thorugh October, I'm loving life. November to March, I'm pissed Cause: Loose pinion bearing preload. Noise: Howl with whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet) Cause: Worn rear pinion bearing or worn gear set. Noise: Howl without whir or rumble while accelerating at any speed (gears previously quiet) Cause: Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloadin
Howling noise that solely occurs during deceleration is a pretty good indicator of loose pinion-bearing preload. If the howling happens under acceleration at different speeds, then it's probably worn out gears. However, overly worn out bearings tend to make a howling noise as well, when they don't support the gears correctly Caution, ultimately it is not the 160lb torque that is important, it is the proper bearing preload. Pinion preload gets measured with no load of any kind on the pinion. The desired preload is very small and measured in inch lbs. I believe that I use 8lbs with new bearings (I can check my Ford manual if you need an exact.
It's the preload on the pinion bearing that can cause sudden death if it's too tight, and not quite so sudden death if it not enough. I had a Suzuki 4x4 that I over tightened the pinion nut and the rear end seized suddenly on the drive home and it went sideways in the road! I always use a new crush sleeve The nut doesnt loosen, the bearing load wears on the crush sleeve and makes it loose, then the yoke gradually works back and forth till it eats the splines, in the yoke usually 91 F350 crew cab 4x4 7.3 ats and intercooled with cut down 2000 ps cooler, bigger turbo comp,head studs, torque cam, coated rockers , balanced. very good power The bearings in the rear end were fine, it was the clutches in the G80 that were wasted. I'm sure the truetrac will outlast it if I ever get the dang preload, backlash and pattern right. Should get the front diff back tomorrow from the shop. Hopefully they find something that is causing the noisy 4wd Besides the loose pinion nut and leak at the seal everything was fine before, and the bearings look great, so I put it all back together with 3 shims at 5 inch pounds of preload, 125 ft lb on the pinion nut Ive installed many sets of gears in my lifetime, but this time I decided to do it the right way. I always set pinion preload by feel, Im doing an 8.8 now and I decided to buy a good inch pound torque wrench. So in doing this, I only have the test bearings on the pinion right now and no crush sleeve and am setting the preload
Pinion Bearing Preload, New Bearings 1.7-3.4 Y 15-30 lb in Pinion Bearing Preload, Used Bearings 1.1-2.3 Y 10-20 lb in Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, New Bearings 3.4-6.2 Y 30-55 lb in Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, Used Bearings 2.8-5.1 Y 25-45 lb i The pinion nut was not tight enough, and the crush sleeve edges had worn down from being loose. I doubt i could find a new one, so I added a .120 hardened transmission washer, and then could finally get a new crush to be able to set the correct preload I have a slight whine in my new frpp 4.10 gearset after install. It is only during coast. A mechanic told me it is my pinion bearing preload is too loose. When I installed the gears I had a hard time getting an accurate preload. My question is how can I set the preload in the car with the.. It was loose before i tried to replace the seal. I mean, as i started to remove the nut, i checked it was very loose. As i have no idea of what the original bearing preload was( or number of turns on the nut), i have no idea of what it should be to re-install the new seal & new nut. ( i hadn't marked anything since the nut was loose at the.
Proper pinion bearing preload is achieved when the torque required to rotate the pinion is 5-15 in/lbs for used bearings or 25-35 in/lbs for new bearings. The best tool for checking pinion bearing preload, on any axle, is a dial-indicating torque wrench with a fairly small scale Using an inch-pound torque wrench, I checked the pinion bearing preload at roughly 75% of one turn and got about 4 inch pounds. I tightened the nut further until I got 8 inch pounds, which should be about right for used bearings. This gave me about 95% of one turn total. I then staked the new nut, and refilled the fluid Excessive operating preload must be avoided as bearing fatigue life can be drastically reduced. Also, excessive operating preload can lead to lubrication problems and premature bearing damage due to high heat generation. Load zone is a physical measure of the raceway loaded arc and is a direct indication of how many rollers share the applied load Just tight enough to seat the bearings in the races and still be able to spin freely. Once the yoke is snugged up begin checking pinion bearing pre-load using an inch pound bar type torque wrench. Keep reading below for more detail instructions Set pinion bearing preload to spec. Install carrier and use some sealer on case sealing surfaces
The outer pinion bearing gets set as you tighten your pinion nut. If you need to get the bearing back out, place a punch on end of the pinion and tap until it is loose. If you're absolutely positive that your pattern is where you want it and you are ready to set pinion preload, then start tightening the pinion nut until you feel resistance Unlike the 8.8-inch pinion, the 9-inch style utilizes a removable pinion cartridge. This cast pinion cartridge allows you the freedom to adjust pinion mounting depth independent of bearing preload. So the pinion head bearing installs without a shim underneath it. The pinion head bearing is a press fi t
Strange NoisesA howl or whine during acceleration over a small or large speed range is usually caused by worn ring and pinion gears (or improper gear set up) A whirring noise while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload Too much preload kills bearings; not enough makes for a noisy ride. Crush Sleeves. This is a special metal sleeve that crushes with 300 to 400 ft-lbs of torque. That means that to properly set the pinion bearing preload, you need to put that amount of force onto the pinion nut
Pinion bearing preload is measured in inch-pounds (lb-in) or Newton-Meters (Nm) of turning torque. A beam type torque wrench is required to measure the turning torque. The pinion nut must be tightened in stages; each time additional torque is applied, the turning torque must be checked The main indicators of a rear axle bearing failure are noise, play and leaks. Other components like differential and side bearings can mimic wheel-bearing noise. A whirring noise while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload The pinion flange on my '98 4Runner mysteriously got loose this summer. The OEM-staked nut did not turn, so I assume some bearing wear. To fix this, I unstaked and tightened the rear output nut to 90 lb-ft, per the manual, and the looseness and felt vibration have disappeared. There are no odd sounds from the xfer case
Like Keith said when it comes to a simple bearing replacement on Dana axles, I reuse all of the old shims and have yet to have one come out wrong. Sometimes you might be at the loose end or tight end but within spec. The best pinion marking to have is 00, you simply select your depth shim and assemble If the bearings are rough, its a ticking time-bomb. I was about to pull the flange side bearing/race but instead found a clean low mileage diff and swapped it in. The flange side bearing on mine was toast, causing the seal to leak due to play in pinion shaft. Now I have a spare to disassemble and learn on If the howling noise only shows up during deceleration, there is a good chance that the pinion-bearing preload has become loose and needs to be adjusted and re-tightened. It can also indicate a bad pinion bearing or ring. In this case it would have to be replaced. On the other hand, if the howling happens when the car is accelerating, over a. I would start by making sure the pinion not is tight and see if that takes care of it if it dosent I would replace the input shaft bearing and seal and reshim it also need to take a look at the shift fork and the gears in the power devider section I've seen a loose pinion not destroy the gears and bearings in there also if the carrier bearing and u joint are good and have no excessive play I. Recently I regeared the front and rear axles and lifted the Jeep 3. The rear is still fine, the front yoke has loosened after about 500 miles. After the..
Even then, it's difficult. For a while now I've suspected the new big pinion bearing of causing the setup problems. Maybe it's a change in how the housings are machined. Whatever it is, it's almost impossible to get a perfect gear pattern. Change the pinion shim from a .028 to a .029 and the gear pattern goes from one extreme to the other Does anyone have any helpful hints,suggestions,or methods for setting pinion bearing preload on a 12-bolt Chevy rearend ? I've rebuilt several of these rearends,but I've always felt uneasy or unshure of the pinion preload. I've got an inch pound torque wrench to check the setting,but my question is how to get to that point. Right now I'm having to replace the pinion bearings,crush sleeve,and. This will ensure the correct pinion bearing preload. Now on to the differential. Remove all the ring gear bolts and then whack the gear loose (if necessary). Dan removed the carrier bearings with a two-jaw puller. It's time to tear apart the Traction-Lok. Start by prying out the S-spring with a screwdriver I made a final rotational torque, with a new bearing installed, of 23 inch-lbs, ideal for this application. Preload specifications are found in a Jeep factory or professional service manual. Step 13: Bearing preload and pinion depth in the axle correct, I install the new, coated pinion seal using Super 300 sealant for insurance
When I went to set preload on the pinion bearings, I used the original 0.479 Ford solid spacer that came in the differential to start and got a reading of about 38-40 inch-pounds of preload (too much) with the seal installed, oiled bearings, and a test pinion nut I made from a used pinion nut torqued to 130 ft-lbs Then I installed the inner bearing(or bearing cone). Then I installed the yoke. Then tighted the yoke up a little ways to get the bearing slid on the pinion. Removed the yoke. Installed the seal. Then reinstalled the yoke, washer, nut. As I started to tighted the nut it was pretty loose at first but then pressed up against the bearing again . Jump to Latest Follow 1 - 3 of 3 Posts I'd say that your pinion bearings are shot if there's that much play in them. The crush sleeve holds the bearing cones apart, providing resistance to the pinion nut for preload setup. If it was set up properly, with no end play, and now has end play, it means the bearing and/or cups are.
With the drive shaft out of the way, I removed the pinion nut. Sure enough it was stripped. With the yoke off, I tapped the pinion out the front. I pried out the seal and collected he slinger, bearing and shims. I set the pinion back in place and removed a .010 shim. It was still too loose. I pulled another shim and it was still too loose Pinion bearing preload. Too loose-bad, Pinion could walk around on the ring gear. Too tight and your pinion bearing bearings burn up-IMHO bad, but not as bad. I know it is after the fact, but you should have marked the pinion nut and reinstalled with the same amount of turns and maybe just a tad more .25 15 to 25 in-lbs. 10 to 20 in-lbs The pinion bearing distance piece is of the collapsible type. That is to say, when the pinion nut is tightened to the correct torque spanner reading of 135 to 140 lb.ft. the distance piece collapses to give the correct bearing preload of 11 to 13 lb. in. It will only perform this function once
If the pinion is loose then you can set the bearing preload, but you will have to almost completely disassemble the rear end to do it. I would recommend removing the pinion and checking the bearings before setting the preload The pinion on the other hand (on most diffs) has a shim between the rear cage and the pinion as well as one that sits between the pinion and the front bearing. the front bearnig is easy to remove, making access to the pinion preload shim easy. The problem is the pinion depth shim (bewteen rear bearing and pinion
Pinion preload on used bearings is generally 1/4 that of new bearing preload. You need to add .005 shim between the crush sleeve and front bearing then recrush to the inch/pd. The preload of the pinion is with the carrier out If the pinion nut was loose, it may be an indication that you have a bad pinion bearing or 2 in there, hence the leaking seal. If you checked before you movd the nut, there was probably a little up/down side/side play in the yoke. If you put more preload on rough bearings it will speed up the rate at which they disintegrate. Grahamsc, Jun. The pinion nut was gradually tightened until 10 in/lb of pinion preload start torque was noted. DING a dent and this completes the pinion end of things. Ring gear assembly is mounted in place and the bearing caps are set to 70 ft/lb Both wheel adjusters are tightened incrementally and carrier bearing preload is dialed in with carefu 5. Install pinion washer and a new nut on the pinion gear. 6. Hold pinion flange (1) with Spanner Wrench 6958 (2) and tighten pinion nut to 217 N•m (160 ft. lbs.). 7. Measure pinion torque to rotate (1) inch pound torque wrench (2). Pinion torque to rotate is recorded reading plus 0.56 N•m (5 in. lbs.). 8. If pinion rotating torque is low
Dodge Truck & SUV forum with the best tech and vehicle help on the web. We are the premiere place for 1st gen and 2nd gen Dodges as well as a great source for newer models as well. D60f pinion bearing preload Putting an ARB in the rear zuk diff. Been researching on how to set preload of the side carrier bearings and set backlash. The concept of setting gear back lash to .002-.006 is pretty straight forward, with tightening / slackening the carrier bearing retaining cups equal amount to move the ring gear the desired direction A whirring noise while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload. A steady vibration that increases with the vehicle's speed can be caused by worn u-joints or an out of balance driveshaft
WORM BEARING PRELOAD - Assures that the worm shaft is held snugly inside the gearbox housing. If the worm shaft bearings are too loose, the worm shaft can move sideways and up and down during operation. OVER CENTER CLEARANCE - Controls the amount of play between the pitman arm shaft gear (sector) and the teeth on the ball nut Pinion Preload: When you assemble the pinion housing on a 14 bolt, you insert a crush sleeve between the inner and outer pinion bearings. It's basically a steel cylinder about 1 long. You then tighten the pinion nut until the play is just gone in the pinion bearings when feeling by hand, as in you can't wiggle the pinion inside the housing.
Pinion bearing preload (extra pressure) Measured with torque wrench in inch/pounds, dial gauge Measured using dial indicator Adjusted with shims Too much preload overheats bearings Too little preload, bearings are too loose. Differential adjustments Ring gear runout. Measured with dial indicator. Differential adjustments Ring and pinion. Pinion Bearing Preload, New Bearings 1.7-3.4 N.m 15-30 lb in Pinion Bearing Preload, Used Bearings 1.1-2.3 N.m 10-20 lb in Pinion and Differential Case Bearing Preload, New Loose pinion bearings Adjust the pinion bearings preload. Refer to Drive Pinion Bearings Replacement and to Backlash Inspection an
i) Insufficient lubrication or incorrect grade of oil ii) Insufficient care whilst running in a new final drive iii) Insufficient crownwheel and pinion backlash iv) Distorted differential housing v) Crownwheel and pinion misalignment vi) Loose pinion nut removing the pinion bearing preload. 2 Incorrect meshing of crownwheel and pinion teeth With the pinion bearing properly lubricated, increase or decrease the shim stack under the front bearing cone to achieve 20-25 inch/lbs of rotational drag or pre-load. This adjustment is why we recommended polishing the area on the pinion where the bearing rests; it can greatly speed up this process if you don't get it right the first, second. The wheel bearings, pinion seal, and front pinion bearing are common to both first- and second-design axles. The first-design axle uses a different rear pinion bearing than the second-design axle. And the really confusing part is that the first-design and second-design axles use the same pinion straddle bearing EXCEPT for the 1984-1985 first. In most cases, this is a result of too little or too much backlash as well as not correctly setting the preload on the pinion bearings. Unfortunately, an incorrectly set up differential will damage the ring-and-pinion gears within a hundred miles or so, and correctly resetting the backlash does not eliminate the howling Usually if the pinion nut is loose, something has caused it seem loose, such as pinion wear. Tightening it up without measuring the preload you are putting on the pinion bearings is very likely to cause pinion bearing failure. Changing pinion bearings will not effect gear setup. Just make sure you re-use the original pinion depth shim, and a.
The pinion preload is set by adjusting the distance between the two pinion bearing cones. Most of this distance is provided by the spacer cylinder, while fine adjustment is done by adding shims. To install the pinion assembly, the two bearing outer races must first be installed into the case A whirring noise while decelerating at any or all speeds is most likely caused by bad pinion bearings or loose pinion bearing preload. Some howls or whines during acceleration over a speed range is usually caused by worn ring and pinion gears or improper gear set up. Broken gears in the differential, a lack of sufficient lubrication or. check the preload with a dail indicator inch pound torque wrench like the small SnapOn and with 30w oil on the bearings and WITHOUT the seal installed. i dont use the crush sleave i use the strange engineering multi shim kit. 15 inch pounds for USED bearings 25 in/lbs for new bearings. isnstall the bearings and torque the nut and with the pinion support in a holding fixture or vise rotate the.
CAUTION: DO NOT overtighten or loosen then retighten pinion nut when adjusting pinion bearing preload. If pinion nut is overtightened, collapsible spacer on pinion must be replaced. 4. Rotate pinion using INCH-lb. torque wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to reading recorded in removal step 2) , plus 5 INCH lbs. (.056 N.m) If so, there should be a pinion bearing preload adjustment I would imagine and if the preload was not set I would imagine the nut could come loose. toggle quoted message Show quoted text From: Crosley-Gang@groups.io [mailto:Crosley-Gang@groups.io] On Behalf Of parkhunter@..
Total Turning Preload which results in severe driveshaft-like vibrations because the destroyed bearings cannot support the pinion shaft. You can also expect the see lubricant leaking past the damaged pinion shaft seal; Contact patterns that tend toward the inside edge (Toe) of the ring gear teeth can be the result of a ring gear offset that. Compatible for HONDA TRX300 2x4 Fourtrax Rear Differential Ring & Pinion Gear + Bearing kit 88-00 Nut Tool Included (Aftermarket Parts) 4.0 out of 5 stars 13. $169.99 $ 169. 99. FREE Shipping. OCTOPUS HONDA TRX 300 FW 4x4 2x4 ATV Fourtrax Rear Differential Ring & Pinion Gear Bearing & Seal kit 88-00 Nut Tool TRX300FW Four Trax Gears The vendor said there were no shims behind the pinion bearing. I can only assume there were no shims. I installed the pinion gear with new crush sleeve and torqued the used pinion nut to 300 plus foot pounds. The pinion shaft is loose there is to much play no bearing preload The bearings can be set at the time of machine assembly, allowing wider shaft and housing tolerances; The setting of tapered roller bearings can be readily accomplished by a wide variety of viable methods. These bearings can be set manually, supplied as pre-set assemblies, or set by automated techniques When I read about setting the preload on the pinion gear, what I envision is that I'm supposed to tighten the pinion nut by hand (aka, a breaker bar), then once there is no front to back play on the pinion gear, start checking the preload with the in/lb torque wrench. If you are using the old pinion bearings it is 8-14in./lbs, with new.
New pinion bearing preload on a dana 30 is 12 to 15 inch pounds. 25-30 is way too high (dry or not), and will heat and eat the new bearings. With the shimmed pinion, just back off the pinion nut, reapply lock-tite and retorque till you get the preload you need The sleeve is crushed just enough to get 10 in/lb start torque of pinion bearing preload. It's important to have a good selection of carrier bearing thrust washer plates to get the backlash and preload dialed in like it should be. Some aluminum based anti-seaize can help tap the washer plate into place. Total preload measured in at 15 in/lb
Is there i certin way to pull out the front bearing(the bearing just behind the pinion seal), and how can i tell if the bearing is shot? You might overdo the pinion preload. On 2004-04-16 21:21, Otis wrote: yep, pinion seal.....Just got done replacing it. I think most of it had to do w/ the pinion nut being so loose....When i torqued it. A lubricated washer reduces friction and prevents the nut and washer from galling during tightening procedures. The thread-locking compound helps retain the nut position and pinion bearing preload. Before setting the final pinion bearing preload, install the pinion seal, slinger (if applicable), and crush sleeve (if applicable) First, a whirring noise while decelerating is usually caused by failing pinion bearings or a loose pinion bearing preload. Whirring can also be caused by worn carrier bearings. If it's whining during acceleration, You likely have a worn sing and pinion gears, or an improper gear setup My area of concern was that the pinion bearings of the Ford truck differential had no preload (and may have been loose), and also that the pinion bearing friction in my 300SD's differential was almost not measurable due to having almost no preload like it was supposed to. I'm sure in both cases it's due to wear The preload adjustment is the only one that may be finicky. Just a few thousanths difference in bearing/race thickness can be enough to effect it. Swap bearings, use old shims, tighten the nut to spec. If the pinion feels like turning a smooth door knob, you're good. If loose or tight, make adjustments Scott, Am I understanding this correctly: For the 7.25 Integral carrier rearend - When the rear axle was originally assembled, there was a minimum of 140 ft lbs torque used to tighten the pinion flange lock nut to obtain the correct pinion bearing preload. This original preload would have required 17-27 inch pounds of torque on the pinion nut to spin the pinion shaft for several revolutions